To wear above the waist, it is very tempting to throw in a bunch of t-shirts of the type worn during the summer at home. However, t-shirts are typically much hotter than woven shirts, and they get soggy and heavy really fast in the monsoon (or when you're sweating a lot). Even worse, you will find them getting mangled out of shape when you wash them by hand or give them to the laundry man for washing. Lightweight, loose cotton shirts are really the best, though they can be hard to find for children.

These days, sleeveless shirts are OK for girls and women to wear in most places, though spaghetti straps would be inappropriate. Before packing a sleeveless shirt, determine if you can wear a bra under it. If you can, then it's fine. If not, leave it at home. Short sleeves are always acceptable. In general, when selecting clothes for yourself or your child (if female), think carefully about modesty. Extremely revealing or clingy tops will draw unwanted attention from young men who think that western girls are all prostitutes. Short skirts are inappropriate for the same reason. Even for a very young child, extremely tight or revealing tops, shorts or skirts should be avoided.

Boys can get away with sleeveless tops but men should wear short sleeves with their long pants. Both sexes can wear shirts untucked to stay cooler. Accessories like belts and jewelry should be kept to a minimum; just bring what you need to be comfortable, and don't worry about looking elegant. Even if you typically wear it at home, there's no point in bringing much makeup and nail polish to India, since you'll be grimy and sweaty most of the time. It doesn't hurt to have one outfit that's a little nicer than the others, to pull out for a special evening event, but it's not essential. You won't feel like spending much time worrying about your appearance.

You may want to bring 7 underwear to go with your 5 outfits, to have spares in case of emergency. Women and teen girls should bring several lightweight bras, with the expectation of wearing each bra no more than twice before washing it due to the heat and humidity. The tropics are especially hard on the large-busted, as heavier bras are required and sweating in the chest area is much worse.

Since you won't be taking too many changes of clothes with you, you'll need to take good care of what you do have. Pack a few Shout Wipes and keep them close at hand in case of a spill when eating. Indian curry stains clothing badly, so you'll want to get the spot out immediately if you have an accident. You should also throw in a small clothing repair kit consisting of thread, straight pins, safety pins and a couple of spare buttons. You can make up a kit yourself, or buy one at Wal-Mart or a similar store. Also bring a few rubber bands and extra ziploc bags in several sizes; you never know when you'll need them.

For pajamas, bring whatever makes you most comfortable as long as it is lightweight. You won't need a robe and slippers. If you like, you can also bring a pair of gym shorts to wear when lounging in your hotel room, as long as you don't wear them outside your room.

In addition to the clothes you are bringing to wear on a daily basis, you will also need a lightweight sweater, windbreaker or zippered sweatshirt to wear on the plane. This will also come in handy in restaurants and other places with over-efficient air conditioning. Children seem particularly vulnerable to feeling cold in air conditioning after spending most of their time outdoors in the heat.

Advice on Footwear

Many streets and pathways in India are fairly uneven and strewn with rocks and other debris, so you need footwear that will cushion you and protect your feet. At the same time, the level of dirt you'll encounter (especially during the monsoon, when everything is muddy) means that whatever footwear you bring will need to be easy to wash and dry. Many travelers find that Teva sandals (or similar) are the best footwear to bring, as they are tough yet springy, and can be rinsed and left to dry overnight. A cheaper alternative would be rubber sandals or thongs of the type you would use at the beach, which are cheap enough to throw away when you get home. Do avoid leather sandals unless this is the last time you plan to wear them, and avoid them at all costs if traveling during the monsoon.

Closed shoes (and socks) are extremely inconvenient in India. When you visit temples or homes, and some other indoor spaces, you will be required to take off your shoes at the door. Often there is no place to sit down, so you need to be able to slide your shoes off (and then back on) while standing up, or at best, while leaning against a wall. In public places like temples, don't worry about having your shoes stolen while you're inside; there seems to be a strong honor system preventing thieves from pilfering them. Unfortunately, once you tromp around a temple barefoot, your feet will be much dirtier when the time comes to put your shoes back on. This is another good reason to bring shoes that can be thoroughly washed at night.

During the monsoon, shoes and socks would inevitably get wet, and chances are they wouldn't dry overnight in a humid hotel room. You definitely can't afford to have wet feet all the time, as this will lead to blisters at best and fungus at worst. So invest in a good pair of Tevas, or bring a couple of pairs of rubber beach sandals instead. If your feet are happy, chances are you'll be happy too.

If your purchase new shoes for the trip, it's probably a good idea to wear them a few times at home before you leave. The worst thing that can happen to your feet while traveling is to get blisters from the only pair of shoes you have along. However, just to be safe, it wouldn't hurt to bring a package of blister blockers, which are essentially fancy Band-Aids with cushioning and extra-strong adhesive. These are available in any supermarket or drugstore, and well worth the cost, as regular Band-Aids loosen quickly when you are sweaty.

If you get any kind of scrape or cut on your feet, especially during the monsoon, you will find yourself extremely prone to infection. Your blister blockers can be cut to the right shape to cover just about any small foot wound, and if you clean your foot carefully before applying antiseptic ointment and the blister blocker, you'll find that the blister blocker will act as a terrific long-lasting barrier against germs.

Staying Healthy in India

In advance of your trip to India, consider getting the 3-shot series for Hepatitis B and Hepatitis A. Hepatitis B is contracted through blood contact like HIV. This makes it fairly hard to transmit. However, the Indian blood supply isn't as safe as ours, so if you were to need a blood transfusion while in India, you would be at risk for contracting Hepatitis B. Hepatitis A (also known as "infectious hepatitis") is transmitted through contaminated food and water or casual contact with an infected person. If you get Hepatitis A, it will make you deathly ill, though you are unlikely to die if you receive prompt treatment.

The vaccines for both kinds of Hepatitis are widely available and very safe. You take your second dose about a month after the first, and your third dose about 6 months later. It is believed that you get temporary immunity after the first dose, and that permanent immunity probably comes after the second dose. The third dose is an "insurance policy" for lifetime immunity.

There are no other immunizations required or recommended for all travelers to India. You may want to check with the Center for Disease Control's website (http://www.cdc.gov) for the latest information, but it is highly unlikely that exotic epidemics will be raging in the places you are likely to go in India. However, do check to make sure that your regular immunizations (e.g. DPT, Tetanus, Polio) are up-to-date before you go.

There is multiply-drug-resistant malaria in India that can also make you very sick. You are more at risk for contracting malaria (ordinary or resistant) if you are traveling during the monsoon, staying in rural areas, and spending time out-of-doors in the evening. The anopheles mosquitoes that carry malaria typically don't bite during the day. There are two strategies for taking precautions against malaria that you should consider. First, talk with your doctor about oral malaria prophylaxis (i.e. pills to take to prevent malaria infections). There are several different options now which you should carefully consider. Alternatively, you can bring DEET-containing insect repellent with you to wear at night on exposed skin. If you pursue this strategy, you should sleep with your windows tightly shut. If you are outdoors in the evening, make sure to wear insect repellent wherever mosquitoes are likely to bite.

There are also ordinary germs around India that could make you miserable during your trip. If you are prone to developing sinus infections, bronchitis or ear infections when you come down with a cold, ask your doctor for a prescription for your favorite upper-respiratory antibiotic. This medication can be carried along as an insurance policy against getting sick while you are in India. The long airline trip in a dry, pressurized cabin with hundreds of other people makes you more susceptible than usual to catching a cold, so don't think it can't happen to you.

If you are a female and find yourself prone to yeast infections, you may want to bring along a one-dose remedy for yeast infections, now sold over-the-counter under many brand names. It's not that these types of medications are unavailable in India, just that you don't want to spend most of a day chasing around looking for what you need when you could be doing things that are a lot more fun.

In the same vein, you should bring along a small supply of all over-the-counter medications you are likely to need if you start feeling unwell in India. Bring analgesics (Tylenol and similar); cough, cold and sore throat remedies, and anything else you thing you might need. If you are traveling with a child, bring a supply of children's medicines along with your adult medicines. To save space in your luggage, avoid liquid medications in favor of tablets (chewables for children). Take the medications out of the boxes they come in and put them in small ziploc bags. Cut out the instructions from the back of the boxes and put them in the ziploc bags too. You'll be amazed at how much you can carry in a small space.

The thing that most travelers worry about in India is intestinal problems brought on by contaminated food and water. It is definitely possible to travel in India and not develop any tummy problems, but you'll need to be careful and proactive to avoid them. To begin with, you need to observe the following dietary restrictions at all times:

· Drink only bottled water, carbonated beverages in cans and bottles, juices in aseptic packages, or hot beverages that have been thoroughly boiled.

· When you purchase water bottles, turn each bottle upside down and squeeze it hard to test the seals. If it leaks at all, discard it.

· Brush your teeth and rinse your brush with bottled water.

· Keep your mouth tightly shut in the shower.

· If your hotel has a pool and you must swim, take care to keep your mouth shut.

· If you are interested in ocean swimming or wading, ask the local people which beaches are viewed as clean and safe.

· Eat no fresh fruits and vegetables at any time, even in a luxury hotel. If you want to enjoy the local produce, buy some in the market and bring it back to your hotel room where you can wash it with bottled water and peel it with your own knife. Exceptions: bananas and citrus that can be washed with bottled water or antiseptic wipes before you peel and eat them.

· Avoid street food, no matter how appetizing it looks.

· Eat in reputable restaurants, and order only cooked food. If something looks or tastes funny, don't eat it. If a fruit or vegetable garnish is served, remove it. If a chutney made from fresh herbs is served, avoid it.

· Try to eat the local yogurt ("curds") at least once a day. Children may be encouraged to do this by adding sugar to their curds. Even one tablespoon full will confer a considerable amount of immunity to the local flora and fauna.

· If urged by an Indian person to eat something that is on your prohibited list, place your hand on your stomach and shake your head no. You can say, "Sorry, not feeling well" if it would help. Indian people understand tummy trouble, because they are prone to getting it too when they travel. Don't let the desire to be a "good tourist" force you into doing something that may make you ill afterwards.

· Wash your hands before you eat or drink anything, using soap and water (if available) or antiseptic wipes. If you wash, use your own hankie to dry your hands.

Staying very well hydrated is an important factor in feeling well throughout your trip. It is easy to forget to drink when you are having a good time, but if you are sweating, you may not realize how much fluid you are losing. It is also tempting to restrict liquids to avoid having to use strange bathrooms which may not be as clean and comfortable as what you are used to. However, if you get dehydrated, you can easily enter a downward spiral of illness starting with a headache, moving on to nausea and vomiting, more dehydration, weakness, etc. Pay attention to your fluid intake at all times!

Similarly, even if you're not terribly hungry or the food on hand doesn't appeal to you a whole lot, make sure to eat regularly while you are traveling. You can bring food from home if necessary (see section below on "Eating Well in India"), but you can also buy potato chips, cookies (called "biscuits"), bananas, oranges and chocolate bars almost everywhere. If you or one of your traveling companions is a picky or irregular eater, keep snack food in your backpack at all times. If you skip a meal completely, you may end up feeling dizzy and nauseous later on, which may cause you to skip another meal. At that point, you'll be "in the soup", so remember to keep your calorie intake up all the time.

Even with all these precautions, you are bound to experience a little discomfort in your stomach and intestines from time to time. To avoid going downhill when this happens to you, bring a supply of the following and use immediately when symptoms appear:

· Tums or similar (calcium carbonate) for acid stomach and heartburn.

· Gas-X or similar (simethicone) for gas, bloating and cramps.

· Chewable Pepto Bismol for mild nausea or diarrhea. (Note: Many travelers have reported that one Pepto Bismol before meals acts as a wonderful prophylactic against mild tummy troubles while overseas. This definitely won't hurt you, except from turning your tongue a little dark or possibly making you a tiny bit constipated. It's well worth trying if you tend to have a sensitive stomach.)

· Immodium or similar for diarrhea. If you have ANY diarrhea, immediately start the Immodium, following package directions. If you do this, you will be able to keep up a normal schedule within a couple of hours of your first dose.

· A thermometer for taking your temperature if you find yourself feeling really bad.

· A prescription medication (Cipro is often recommended) for real gastroenteritis. This will need to be obtained from your doctor ahead of your departure. You probably won't need it, but it makes a wonderful insurance policy. If you experience diarrhea or vomiting with FEVER or CHILLS, start taking your prescription immediately along with medications to ameliorate your symptoms (e.g. Pepto Bismol, Immodium).

· A couple of packages of oral electrolyte powder (available in most drugstores in adult and kid versions) to help re-hydrate yourself if you are struck with severe vomiting or diarrhea. (To save money, you can make your own rehydration powder by combining one teaspoon of sugar with a pinch of salt. Put several multiples of this amount in a ziploc bag and if you need to use it, add one teaspoon of the mixture to 8 ounces of safe water). If you or someone in your family were to fall seriously ill, having this powder could make the difference between a one-day recovery and several days of sickness requiring a trip to the hospital for I.V. fluids.

Although most people know enough to prepare for traveler's diarrhea, you may find yourself suffering more from constipation when traveling to India. The long plane ride alone is enough to get yourself "backed up" right at the start. After arrival, your bowels will stay on American Time for several days. If you don't use the toilet as soon as you feel an urge, you could find yourself unable to go when you want to. Sweating also reduces the water available to soften your stools and makes it harder to eliminate comfortably. This is another reason to stay as well hydrated as possible when you are traveling. However, if you tend to get constipated easily, you should definitely bring some stool softeners with you on the trip. These are available over-the-counter in generics and brand names like Correctol. Being constipated can make you really miserable, and the stool softeners are a gentle way to keep yourself regular. Bulking agents like Metamucil and Fiberall are OK, but unless you drink a huge amount of liquid they may bind you up more.

You should also bring a few things to take good care of your skin while in India. Pack an assortment of Band-Aids, some blister blocks, and some antiseptic cream for blisters, cuts and scrapes. If you don't plan on bringing a small sewing kit, include a needle for removing splinters. Anti-itch cream containing hydrocortisone will help with inset bites and rashes if you get any, and it can also help remove the sting of a sunburn. Keep your eyes open for small bottles or roll-on sticks of sunscreen and insect repellent, to avoid weighing yourself down with heavy bottles of liquid. (If you have trouble finding small bottles, try a camping supply store). Also bring a few tubes of moisturizer with you, to use on the plane and in dry places like Rajasthan.

Eyecare is something you may want to think about as well. If you wear prescription glasses and are very blind, bring an old pair of glasses in your suitcase to use in case of emergency. If you are prone to sore eyes, bring a small supply of your favorite eye drops. If you wear contacts, bring plenty of contact lens maintenance supplies with you. Bring sunglasses if you would wear them on a sunny day at home, or bring a hat or visor to keep the sun out of your face.

If you are prone to motion sickness, bring elastic acupressure wristbands (Sea Bands or similar) to wear whenever you are in motion. If motion sickness is a big problem for you at home, assume it will be an even bigger problem in India due to the heat and the stop-and-go driving. Look for over-the-counter non-drowsy motion-sickness remedies like Bonine or similar, and bring a supply with you in your medication bag.

Bring a sufficient supply of any prescription medicines you normally take to get you through the entire trip plus a few extra days (to cover you if you get stuck). Keep a small amount in your fanny pack or shoulder bag to take at the appropriate time, and replenish this supply every day or two from your larger supply kept elsewhere. Keep all your medical items (prescription and non-prescription) in a large ziploc bag to carry in your backpack when flying. At other times, this bag can stay in your hotel room. Take what you think you might need with you each morning as you get ready to go out.

All of this may seem like an awful lot of trouble, but if you spend some time preparing in advance, and observe the dietary restrictions listed above, you can beat the odds and keep yourself happy and healthy throughout your trip to India.

Eating Well in India

Indian food is basically spicy. Given this fact, there is no point in asking a waiter, "Is it spicy?" when you order an Indian dish. Whether he says yes or no, the food will almost certainly contain a lot of spice. If you enjoy spicy food and are an adventuresome eater, you will have a lot of fun while traveling in India.

In most hotels used by tourists, you will be able to enjoy an Indian-style breakfast (Indian bread, yogurt, curried vegetables, and tea) or a western-style breakfast (cornflakes or oatmeal "porridge", milk, fruit juice, eggs, toast and jam). In the latter case, please be aware that Indian