Antiseptic wipes in individual packets are essential items when traveling in India. Bring at least 4-5 per person per day, more if traveling with a child. Use these frequently during the day, but always before eating or drinking anything. These may also be helpful for other purposes (e.g. cleaning fruit, sanitizing drinking glasses or silverware, etc.) Indian people may stare at you a bit when you pull these out, but don't let that bother you. What's most important is staying clean and healthy so you can enjoy every minute of your trip.

If you plan to wash some clothes yourself, this can easily be accomplished in your hotel room's sink or tub. It will be helpful to bring a rubberized universal drain cover to put over the drain (don't assume there will be a working stopper) which can be purchased in most home-supply stores. You should also bring lightweight synthetic cord and a dozen small clothespins, and be prepared to exercise creativity in finding a place to hang your line. Concentrated "Travel Wash" is available from travel supply stores and catalogs, or you can bring a ziploc bag with powdered soap, or a small bottle or tube of Woolite in a ziploc bag, or simply a cake of Ivory soap in a well-sealed bag.

If you are female or traveling with a menstruating girl, plan ahead to ensure that you will have the menstrual supplies you will need if/when one of you gets her period. Indian menstrual supplies have improved greatly in recent years, but better to bring the type you are familiar with and avoid having to find an open store offering the item you need. Older women with a tendency toward stress incontinence, or anyone who tends to experience an urgent need to urinate should bring ultra-thin absorbent pads to wear all the time. This prevents embarrassment in situations where there is no readily available bathroom or private place to squat.

Note: When traveling in India with an American-raised child, you will be struck by the degree to which our kids put their hands all over everything around them. They are accustomed to living in a place where walls, railings, salt shakers, furniture and feet are usually sanitary. You will need to remind your child frequently to keep his/her hands off things, and try catch them with an antiseptic wipe before putting their fingers in their mouth. You don't need to be insane about this, but you should do your best to be careful. For obvious reasons, well-brought-up Indian children don't touch things they don't need to touch, and they definitely don't suck on their fingers or play with their shoes or feet when out in public. When wearing sandals, our kids are especially prone to touching or fiddling with their feet, which is considered incredible vulgar in India.

Daily Incidentals

While traveling around India, you can eat well for $15 a day, including the occasional cup of tea or cold drink and snack, as long as you stay away from expensive luxury hotel restaurants. You should figure on approximately 3 one-liter bottles of water per day per person, including tooth brushing. Bottled water varies in price depending on where you are, but $1 per bottle is typical.

Entrance fees range from Rs.10 to Rs.500 (25 cents to $11.11) depending on the attraction. (The Rs.500 entrance fee for foreigners at the Taj Mahal is the steepest fee you're likely to encounter). If you have a camera, you may have to pay a small additional camera fee. Video cameras typically cost a bit more than still cameras, but if you don't want to pay the fee, you can stow the camera in your backpack for the duration.

Laundry service will probably cost you about $5 per day per person, but you can avoid this expense by doing your own laundry in your hotel room. (Just make sure that you bring clothes that are lightweight enough to dry overnight, and plan on spending about 30 minutes each evening doing your laundry).

For snacks, a small packet of cookies or crackers or a single-serving bag of potato chips is likely to cost 50 cents or so, and a chocolate bar will set you back about $1. A cold soda costs about the same as a chocolate bar, but tea is usually cheaper. Fruit purchased from a local shop or street-vendor's cart will be cheaper than what you'd pay at home.

Your only other major incidental will be tips. Hands are outstretched for tips wherever you go in India, due to the disparity in income levels between western tourists and Indian locals. You should not tip someone who has performed a service you didn't want or didn't ask for (like closing your car door for you or cleaning your car window). However, if someone has done a little something to help you and you want to reward him, offer a small tip of Rs.10. In general, you should save your Rs.10 notes for tips and spend your bigger notes on meals and souvenirs. People are happy to take bigger bills, but you really shouldn't overtip if you can avoid it.

Getting Around

Flights are available between major Indian cities, though they are often full. If you plan to fly around India, make sure to book well in advance, and confirm your flights before you leave for India and when you arrive in India.

India has the largest rail system in the world, and little by little the tracks of various gauges are being converted to a single gauge, speeding up connections between different parts of India. There are many different classes of trains and cars. If you are thinking of traveling by train in India, get the book "India by Rail" which is readily available from Amazon.com. This will tell you everything you need to know about the system. There is also good information available online regarding train numbers and times. To find this information, use your favorite search engine and enter the words "Indian railways timetable" as you start your search.

Fast trains are available on some routes, but many trains stop frequently to take on and discharge passengers. While traveling by train in India can be atmospheric and fun, it is not usually a fast way to go from Point A to Point B. There are tourist ticket quotas for many trains, but on popular routes you may need to book ahead to ensure you get seats. If you choose second-class travel, be prepared to assert yourself as you struggle against the crowd to get yourself and your baggage on board. If you hang back, you'll be sorry.

Buses are everywhere in India, and it should be possible to get from any Point A to any Point B through the right combination of buses. Buses are incredibly cheap, but unless you are taking an A/C luxury bus on a long-distance ride, they will be crowded to the gills and non-air conditioned. Even the luxury buses have to travel on washboardy Indian roads, so you can assume you'll be in for a bumpy ride most of the time.

For in-city traveling and day-trips into the countryside, one of the best options is to hire a car and driver by the day. The cost (around $25 a day including a 10% tip at the end) is well worth the comfort and security. If you are traveling when it is extremely hot, you may wish to spend a little more to get an air-conditioned car. Otherwise, you'll probably get the familiar Indian Ambassador, with its rounded shape and boing-y springs. Cars and usually available from the local tourist authority, but you can usually arrange them through your hotel as well. The best part of having a driver is knowing he's waiting for you and that you won't have to hail a cab and haggle over the fare.

If you don't want to spring for a car and driver to stay with you all the time, you will have to use taxis or autorikshaws to get around. Taxi drivers tend to be rapacious and to drive like fiends. If you ask your hotel for typical fares from one point to another, you will be better equipped to avoid exploitation. Just stand your ground and prepare to wait for a taxi that will take you where you want to go at a reasonable cost. If you end up paying quite a bit more than the going rate, don't bother to tip. Otherwise, a 10% tip is nice.

Coming out of most airports and some train stations, you will usually find a prepaid taxi stand. This enables you to pay your fare in advance, and avoid being swindled. Once you pay the fare, you will be given a small chit to hand over to the first taxi in the prepaid line outside. Once you reach your destination, a tip of 10% is customary. In some major tourist destinations, you can arrange at the airport or train station for a car and driver to take you around the major sights. If you pay a little extra, you can get an air-conditioned car and/or an English-speaking driver. These are typically pretty good ways to get around, but you will probably find yourself transported to one or more "handicraft emporia" where the driver will get a cut of whatever you purchase. Often the handicrafts are higher priced and poorer quality than those available in other shops. It is almost impossible to prevent your driver from taking you to such a place if he is so inclined, so if this happens to you, buy if you want, but don't feel obliged to do so, and don't hesitate to make a quick trip of it if you don't see anything you want.

Another good way to see the major sights in a short time is to take a tour offered by the local tourist authority. These will typically be inexpensive and will have an English-speaking guide. You will be forced to move quickly during these tours, but you will also get a chance to see a little of everything, and you'll also find yourself elbow-to-elbow with Indian tourists who may be very interesting to converse with.

If possible, arrange for your hotel to pick you up at the airport when you arrive at a new destination. This service may be free, or you may have to pay for it, but either way, it's a good idea. Often, taxi drivers (prepaid or otherwise) will claim that the hotel you are asking for is closed for repairs, and will suggest another hotel. It can be very difficult to argue with the driver and force him to take you where you want to go. (Best method: the broken record technique -- just repeat your request over and over until it is honored).

There are a few things you should know about travel by road in India and how it is different from travel by road in America. First, people drive on the left in India. If you are typically a backseat driver, this will be very unnerving to you at first. Second, seat belts are rarely available. The only way to cope with this is to assume that when your time comes, it will come, and try not to worry about it. Third, the roads are generally in poor condition and way too narrow to carry the traffic they carry. Fourth, traffic rules are rarely enforced in India. On a typical road, you'll find everything from bicycles to scooters to hand-pulled carts to autorikshaws, not to mention cars, trucks ("lorries") and buses. The horn is used constantly to warn slower-moving vehicles to pull over and let faster-moving vehicles through.

Overall, driving in India is a constant game of "chicken", with most drivers going at break-neck speeds and giving way only inches before a head-on crash. If you are prone to motion sickness, look straight ahead, get plenty of fresh air, and wear motion-sickness bands. If you are a scaredy-cat, close your eyes and hope for the best. Otherwise, pretend you're on an exciting ride at Disney, and enjoy the ride for what it is -- a great chance to take in the "real" India.

As a pedestrian in India, you will be taking your life in your hands on a regular basis. Because you are accustomed to vehicles driving on the right, you will often look the wrong way to check for oncoming traffic. If you wait for a "safe" space to cross, you may never get anywhere. However, crossing against the traffic in a typical Indian town or city is not for the faint of heart. The best advice is to attach yourself to other pedestrians and move when they do, and quickly.

Autorikshaws are a really fun way to get around in India. They swarm around like little polluting bees, with their characteristic horns (wimpy buzzers or old-fashioned squeeze bulbs) much in evidence. You can typically get two adults, or one adult and two children, into an autorikshaw comfortably. The fares are much cheaper than taxis, but since they aren't terribly comfortable, they are better for short trips than long hauls. They are also fairly dangerous, since they overturn easily and don't have much protection from pollution or flying debris in the road. Still, every traveler should try an autorikshaw at least once, if only for the experience.

Cycle rickshaws are available in older sections of major cities, and in Calcutta, there are still hand-pulled rickshaws. Although traditional Indians are very comfortable being conveyed by "human horses", many Americans will wish to steer clear. If you do decide to try this type of transportation, this is one time when you should feel free to overpay and overtip. The life of a typical rikshaw-wallah is a short and sad one.

Dealing with Beggars and Other Pests

Beggars are most in evidence in the large cities, particularly in the north. In areas frequented by tourists, they are everywhere. You will see much fewer of them in small towns, and in most of south India. However, someone doesn't need to be a beggar to ask a tourist for "baksheesh" (a tip). You will often be asked for baksheesh when you take someone's picture. If you decide to pay, make it a small tip of Rs.5 or Rs.10, and not a paise (cent) more. However, if there are several people around, they may all ask for baksheesh. In this case, the best thing to do is smile and say, "nay baksheesh" (no baksheesh) as you walk away.

The hardest beggars to walk away from are handicapped people, lepers and children. Those little hands on your arm or back, those pleading eyes … it's so hard not to give something. However, if you start handing out money to beggars, you will quickly be surrounded, and you may even be in danger. To avoid this problem, you may wish to bring wrapped hard candies from home to distribute freely to beggars and people asking for baksheesh. In India, all candies of this type are called "toffees". It's easier to walk away knowing that you've given something sweet to provide a moment of enjoyment.

Children in India who are not beggars may still ask you for things, especially pens. "One pen! One pen!" may be the only English they know, and one wonders what they do with all the pens they must receive from tourists. If you feel like bringing lots of cheap pens with you, there's no reason not to. Alternatively, your "American toffees" will do just fine. Just remember that Indian people like sweet tastes rather than tart ones, and leave the Jolly Ranchers and Sweet Tarts at home.

Another type of person to watch out for is known as a "tout" (towt). This is a person who follows you around and offers to lead you to shops to find the things you are looking for. In major temple complexes, you may encounter priestly touts who are no less rapacious for being men of the cloth. Most touts will claim that they want no money from you, and that they simply want to do a good deed or practice their English. Without exception, they will steer you to shops where they get a commission for bringing you, and the merchandise available will be higher-priced and of poorer quality than what you might find elsewhere. In a temple, the priestly touts will hit you up for big donations "for the poor". All in all, most of these people are leeches, and they can be incredibly hard to shake. The best you can do is say "no thank you" in a firm and pleasant voice, and walk on. Be prepared to do this dozens of times if necessary.

As you stroll through the streets in India, shopkeepers will often urge you to come into their shops. If you appear indecisive, they will press harder. So, if you're really not interested in their wares, say "no thank you" and keep walking. It can be hard to balance you desire to be a "good" visitor against your desire to do things in your own way and at your own pace. However, as long as you are polite, you shouldn't feel obliged to do anything you don't feel like doing just to prove that you're not an "ugly American".

Making Yourself Understood

Most people in India with any education speak English, especially in the south, where Hindi is spoken much less and English is spoken much more. (Literacy rates are also much higher in the south, so you are more likely to encounter educated people there than in many parts of the north).

Of course, English is spoken with a different lilt -- and many different words -- than in America. You will have to listen carefully to understand what someone is saying to you, and speak slowly and with as few slang terms as possible in order to make yourself understood. In fact, as you travel in India you will become painfully aware of how much colloquialism is used in everyday American English, and you will gradually learn to speak in clear, simple sentences using words that a non-native speaker is more likely to understand.

It may be helpful to understand a few synonyms in Indian English in order to get around efficiently. Here are some terms to know and understand:

· If you need a bathroom, ask for a toilet. Bathrooms are places where people take baths.

· If you need toilet paper or Kleenex, ask for tissue.

· If you want to stow your luggage in a car, put it in the boot, not the trunk.

· If you want bottled water, ask for mineral water.

· The thing that heats the water in your bathroom is called a geyser (geezer).

· If you are looking for candy, ask for chocolates or toffees. For a dessert, ask for sweets.

· If you want a bottle of soda, ask for a cold drink.

· French fries are called chips, and catsup is called tomato sauce.

· Potato chips are called potato crisps.

· If you want to eat food containing meat or chicken, ask for non-veg.

· If you want cookies, ask for sweet biscuits, and if you want crackers, ask for savory biscuits.

· For cold cereal, ask for cornflakes (that's all there is), and for hot cereal, ask for porridge.

· If you want yogurt, ask for curds. Only plain yogurt is typically available.

· Bicycles are called cycles, and trucks are called lorries.

· Rupees are frequently referred to as "bucks".

· Flashlights are called torches.

· If you need a trash can, you can try asking for a dustbin, but chances are you won't find one.

· If you hear the word lakh, think 10,000; a crore is 10,000,000.

· If a shopkeeper says that an item is "free size", that means it's "one size fits all".

If an emergency strikes and you can't seem to communicate in English, do your best to pantomime your need, as if you were playing charades. This can be surprisingly effective, especially when done with a smile and a pleasant tone of voice. Speaking more loudly to someone who doesn't understand you is very tempting, but it doesn't work. Ever.

One thing to understand about Indian people is that they really don't like to say no, especially to guests. (Indian culture says that "Guest is God", and this goes for tourists as well). The much-used diagonal head wag can be interpreted as "yes", but it also may mean "I acknowledge you". (Indeed, a nice way to greet people you meet on the street is to put your hands together briefly, make eye contact, and waggle your head from side to side. This is the equivalent of a cheery "hi" in America).

Under these circumstances, it can be hard to interpret a seemingly positive response to a request. "Is the temple nearby?" or "Can you wash this shirt by tomorrow?" may engender a head-waggle, but that doesn't necessarily mean that the answer is yes, just that the person answering would LIKE it to be yes. Further probing is generally recommended to ensure against misunderstandings and disappointment.

The "Guest is God" mentality may also lead Indian people you meet to go to heroic lengths to help you or make you comfortable. While the legions of beggars, touts and people who seem to want you only for your money may make you think all Indians are rapacious, in fact most people are hospitable and generous to a fault. If you admire something carried or worn by someone you meet, you may find him or her giving it to you the next minute. If you express a need, someone may put aside his own needs to help you out. It can be hard to know when to trust someone and when to be suspicious, but outside of heavily touristed areas, trust should be your first instinct. Just make sure to take down people's addresses so you can send them a thank-you note and photograph after you return home.